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Parts Listing

Please read the following building guide and it will help you in choosing the proper gear to equip your Foamy Factory airplane.  I have put together this guide in order to answer as many questions as I possibly can right here on the website.  While it’s not a “step by step” construction manual, (I just haven’t had the time to do one of those) it should help in answering those little questions that always come up.  

I will also list some hints and tips on the construction methods used on the Foamy Factory models at the bottom of this page.  The tips should help those of you who are unfamiliar with the building methods and materials used on these fun little 3D aerobats.   

Just remember, If you have never built a model before, or if this is your first R/C model, your learning curve will be a bit steeper than if you have built a few models before.  www.ezonemag.com is a great source of info on these models.  Just click on the currently active thread link and post your question.  Often times you will get an answer much faster than if you had emailed me a question.  I literally get tons of emails every day and sometimes I get behind.  Also, I am often away from home for several days at a time so email tends to pile up on me.   

Below is a comprehensive list of the components in the 3DX, Yak 54 and the 30" Ultimate Biplane. Setup is the same for any model. First of all, I have been running a brushed setup, and a brushless setup. I'll list the components for both. Both set-ups have full 3D and hovering capability. However, the brushless version takes it to the extreme.  If you use the components listed, these setups will provide the performance levels that are seen in the videos. Feel free to experiment and test other motor/prop combos. I have not tried an outrunner type motor yet, but I'm anxious to try one.   

Brushed setup:
Power: GWS EPS350C "DS" gearing (6.6:1 ratio) comes with the motor **GWS discontinued the EPS300C and replaced it with the EPS350C**
Speed Control: Castle Creations Pixie 20P (or equivalent)
Prop: GWS 12x6
Battery: 8 cell KAN 650 Nimh
Servos: (3 or 4) 8-9 gram servos

Brushless setup:
Gearbox: GWS EPS350C "DS" gearing (6.6:1 ratio) take the motor out.
Motor: Motor/gearing combos shown below in tables
Speed Control: Castle Creations Phoenix 25
Battery: E-Tec 3s1p 1200ma (3 cells in series) Lithium Polymer Batteries
Everything else is the same. 

Brushed Motors – The GWS EPS350C with DS gearing is now the brushed motor/gearbox of choice.  GWS replaced the EPS300C with the 350C in mid 2003.  The original 300C motor needed to be re-timed in order to get the optimum performance.  With the introduction of the 350C series, re-timing is no longer necessary.  However, with this newer motor, the amp draw has risen a bit, and the originally recommended Sanyo AAA 720ma cells just don’t hold up as well under the increased load and performance is less than stellar.  If you will be using an older 300C, the Sanyo AAA 720ma cells will work.  If you are going to be using the EPS350C, I highly recommend NOT using the Sanyo cells.  Instead, I have found that the KAN650mh NiMh cells out perform the Sanyos by many times.  In any case, the GWS EPS350C comes in many gearing choices.  The favored choice is the “DS” gearing option which is a 6.6:1 gear ratio.  With the DS gearing, a 12x6 prop is recommended.  If you go with the “CS” gearing (5.3:1), an 11x4.7 prop works well.  

NOTE: A 3S1P 1200 E-tec Lipo will burn out a GWS350 prematurely, and in that situation, a 2S1P would be desirable, but may not produce enough power to fly 3D effectively.  The best route being to step up to brushless.

Brushless Motors -  The obvious motor of choice is a brushless motor.  Brushless motors provide much more power and significantly better overall performance and longevity.  With the newer and less expensive brushless motors now on the market, it makes sense to “Go Brushless” as soon as possible.  Brushless motors are almost maintenance free and will last for years if properly cared for.  The same cannot be said for traditional brushed motors.  

Himax Brushless Motors –  Himax motors have only been available for a few months here in the States.  However, they have proven their worth in the power department.  The new Himax motors are great little powerhouses and the pricing is VERY attractive.  Himax motors are easier to find too as most retailers are supported by a fairly extensive distributorship.  Himax motors have become the “Recommended motor of choice” for Foamy Factory models.  

Hacker Brushless Motors –  Hackers are the cream of the crop as far as brushless goes.  If you have the money, “Purple Power” is the way to go.  For the smaller 30-36” inch span airplanes, the B20-xxS series works great in the GWS gearboxes.  The B20-xxS series also can be had with a Maxon 4:1 gearbox already attached to the motor.  On the larger, 40” span planes, a Hacker B20-15L geared 4:1 is a great choice.    

Razor Brushless Motors – The Razor RZ350, RZ400, RZ300, and MicroHeli are all great choices.  However, they have become about as rare as hen’s teeth and are extremely difficult to find.  Also, the prices of the Razor motors have been increased by the manufacturer, and in my opinion, a bad move.  The prices of Razor motors are now in line with Hacker motors.  For the money, I’d choose a Hacker over a Razor any day.

Below is a listing of brushless motor/gearing combos that will work very well.  Just remember, with a brushless combo, you are looking for ultimate performance, so select a combo that will give you a 2:1 thrust to weight ratio or better.

Motor/Gearing combos for the 36" class airplanes - The highlighted combos are those I have used with outstanding performance.

Motor Gearing Prop Battery Amp Draw Thrust
Hacker B20-26S 4:1 APC 11x4.7 3s1p LiPo 11 amps 22.1 oz.
Hacker B20-31S 4:1 APC 11x4.7 3s1p LiPo 7.7 amps 18.6 oz.
Razor RZ300 GWS/5.3:1 GWS 11x4.7 2s1p LiPo 8.8 amps 15.7 oz.
Razor RZ300 GWS/6.6:1 GWS 11x4.7 3s1p LiPo 10.3 amps 23.1 oz.
Razor RZ350 GWS/6.6:1 GWS 12x6 3s1p LiPo 10.6 amps 24.4 oz.
Razor MicroHeli v2 GWS/6.6:1 GWS 12x6 3s1p LiPo 8.9 amps 22.8 oz.
HiMax HA2015-3600 GWS/5.3:1 GWS 12x6 3s1p LiPo 8.7 amps 20.5 oz.
HiMax HA2015-3600 GWS/6.6:1 GWS 12x6 3s1p LiPo 6.5 amps 18.5 oz.
HiMax HA2015-4100 GWS/6.6:1 GWS 12x6 3s1p LiPo 11.2 amps 26.4 oz.
HiMax HA2015-4100 GWS/5.3:1 GWS 11x4.7 3s1p LiPo 11.6 amps 25.2 oz.

Motor/Gearing combos for the 40" class airplanes - I am using a Thunder Power 3s 2100ma Lipo pack for the 40" class airplanes.   

Motor Gearing Prop Battery Amp Draw Thrust
Hacker B20-15L 4:1 APC 11x4.7 3s2p LiPo 19.5 amps 38.5 oz.
Hacker B20-18L 4:1 APC 11x4.7 3s1p LiPo 11.7 amps 27.7 oz.
Hacker B20-18L 4:1 APC 11x4.7 3s2p LiPo 18 amps 37.8 oz.
HiMax HA2025-3236 3.6:1 Planetary APC 11x4.7 3s2p LiPo 14 amps 29.3 oz.
HiMax HA2025-3236 3.6:1 Planetary APC 12x6 3s2p LiPo  17 amps  32.2 oz.
HiMax HA2025-4236 4.3:1 Planetary APC 11x4.7 3s2p Lipo 20.2 amps 38.1 oz.

The 40" Ultimate Biplane also does VERY well with a Mega 16/15/4, Astro 709 3.3:1 gearbox, APC 12x6 SF prop and a Thunder Power 3s 2100ma Lipo pack.  The Mega 16/15/3 will work also, but prop it down to 11x4.7 to keep the amps down.  This setup will give you in the 40+ oz. range of thrust and will rival the big 30% 3D gasser planes in sheer WOW power.  Don't use the Mega combo on the 40" single wing planes as it it just too much power.

Radio/Receiver - I fly most of my electrics with a JR700 receiver with the case taken off to save some weight. JR has some nice smaller receivers too. If you want to go with the best small receiver, I would suggest the Berg 4 or 5 DSP It's a great little unit and it will work with JR or Futaba. Make sure you order the correct crystal too.  Another great little unit is the GWS Pico receiver.  I use a JR 8103 transmitter.  I use the 8103 mainly because that’s what I have, and I like the mixing capabilities this radio has.  However, any basic four channel radio will work just fine for any of the Foamy Factory models.  

Speed controllers - These are another issue entirely. They are broken down into 2 basic types. ESC's for brushed or brushless motors. I just bought a Castle Creations Pixie20P (brushed) and a
Phoenix 25 (brushless) and am VERY happy with both of them. They will work well for the smaller, front yard/park type flyers. Brushless controllers are a bit more expensive than the brushed, but brushless motors put out more power, last almost forever, and are pretty much maintenance free.

Servos – Any 8-9 gram servo will work well.  There are so many servos in this category, that it’s hard to list them by brand.  If you order them, get a few sets of replacement gears too. Hangar bumps tend to strip them sometimes.  6 gram servos will work well too, however the loads imposed by all out 3D flying can tax the capabilities of these little servos.  A good mix might be one 6 gram servo on each aileron, and one 9 gram servo for elevator, and one 9 gram servo for rudder.

Batteries - I am using an 8 cell
KAN 650ma NiMh battery in my brushed motor planes. Great cells and pretty cheap too. You can get these cells pre-made into 8 cell packs, or you can buy the individual cells and make up your own packs. If you are using the GWS EPS350C, I would suggest using the newer KAN 650ma cells. These cells hold up much better under the increased amp draw of the 350C.  Try to stay away from the Sanyo 720 cells if using the GWS EPS350, they just don’t hold up under the amp load very well. 

Lithium Polymer - I'm using an E-Tec 3s1p 1200ma LiPo pack from Park Flyer Motors for the 36” span planes.  For the 40” span planes, I’m using a 3s1p Thunder Power 2100ma pack.

Brushed Motor and gearbox is the GWS EPS 350C with "DS" gearing (6.6:1), try Park Flyer Motors for great prices.  If you are planning to use a brushless motor, you can get the GWS EPS gearbox without the motor.

f you get A brushless motor, you need to get a pinion gear for the motor. Order the 10T (DS) pinion.

Props - Of course, prop selection depends on motor/gearing choice.  The GWS 12x6 and 11x4.7 work great.  My favorite props are the APC SlowFlyer props also in 12x6 or 11x4.7  Make sure you get a couple of props, you will break them...

NiMh Charger - I would seriously look at the Great Planes Triton charger. The nice thing about it is that it will charge NiCads, NiMh, and Lithium Polymer batteries. It's a bit pricey at $147.00, but the only other chargers that will do everything are in the $250.00+ range.  The GWS NiMH charger does a great job and is very economical at around $39.00

Lithium-Polymer Charger - I use the Apache Smart Charger 1500. It will charge up to 4 cells in series.  However,
Apache chargers are being re-designed, and nobody will have them in stock before mid-February, if even that soon.  For an entry level Lipo charger, the BEL works great and is priced at about $32.00.  Another great charger that just came on the market is the AstroFlight Deluxe Lithium-Polymer Battery Charger.  This LiPo only charger will charge pretty much any pack configuration you can think of.  It’s a super versatile charger and for $125.00, it’s a bargain if you plan on moving over to LiPo cells.  Both the BEL and AstroFlight chargers are available at Park Flyer Motors   

Carbon Tubes - I get my 4mm carbon tubes here:  Part CT1570L - Carbon Tube Pultruded '1570' (4mm) 48" $2.50 apiece. When I ordered them, the shopping cart feature was not working on their website, so I just called and ordered. They are by far the cheapest (retail) I've found.

4mm pultruded carbon tubes are also available here: www.nyblimp.com and here Goodwind's Kites**4millimeter = 0.1574803 inch, 5 millimeter = 0.1968504 inch**

Colored packing tape is available here This tape was used on several of the models.


    3DX - Electric 3D Aerobatic Park Flyer with GWS EPS300C    Ultimate Bipe - Electric 3D Aerobatic Park Flyer with GWS EPS300C



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